By Nancy D. Lackey Shaffer | Photos by Andrea Lehman
Arthurian legend holds that Avalon was an enchanted isle, where the great sword Excalibur was forged, the sorceress Morgan le Fay dwelt and King Arthur himself was brought to die.
Avalon the city, on California’s Catalina Island, bears little resemblance to Glastonbury in Southwest England — the area most often associated with the mythological location. But it is, indeed, a magical place, nestled between sea and sky, a mere 22 miles from the mainland…and a realm all by itself.
A Unique Island Among Unique Islands
Santa Catalina is one of the eight islands that make up California’s Channel Islands. Officially it is part of the Southern Channel Islands, in the Peninsular Ranges, off the Los Angeles County coast and neighbor to San Nicolas, Santa Barbara and San Clemente islands. It is…and is not…like its northern counterparts.
The geography is very similar — rugged and rocky, with rolling hills and canyons, an arid climate and remarkably beautiful coastline teeming with kelp and wildlife. It has its own endemic species of fox. Boating, camping, kayaking, hiking, snorkeling, whale watching…as fabulous on Catalina as they are on Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa or Anacapa. Mainlanders travel here to get away from city life and light pollution, and embrace the island’s unique environment and ambience.
But Catalina Island is very much a place all its own.
For starters, it’s the only Channel Island with an incorporated city. Of 4,000 people that live here year-round, 90% are in the city of Avalon. It’s not a big city — the whole place is about three square miles — but it’s got most of the amenities: houses, a school, banks, shops, a supermarket (Vons), even a movie theater.
And lots of hotels and restaurants! Tourism is a major economic driver, with the luxurious accommodations and fine dining to support it. If you love Santa Cruz Island but don’t love camping, Catalina is the place to be.
Charming Harbor Town
From my first glimpse of Avalon Bay, I knew I was on holiday. The sparkling blue ocean dotted with watercraft, the nearly perfect crescent shape of the coastline, colorful buildings along the waterfront…Catalina Island is about as picture-perfect a seaside resort as it gets.
My friend Andrea and I were traveling aboard a vessel operated by Catalina Express, offering smooth and relaxing ferry service across the San Pedro Channel. Sleek, high-speed catamarans with stabilizers (to minimize rocking and rolling), comfortable seating inside and out, viewing windows all around and bars offering a wide variety of refreshments make the one-hour crossing from Long Beach a special experience in and of itself. It’s a wonderful way to experience the beauty of California’s Pacific waters, including dolphins, seals and any other wildlife that choose to make an appearance. We were lucky enough to be seated in the Commodore Lounge, where the accommodations are a little plushier and drinks and snacks are complimentary. A Bloody Mary is a great start to any getaway.
It didn’t take long to dock and disembark. Luggage in hand, we strolled along Crescent Avenue, Avalon’s version of Main Street, marveling at the multicolored buildings with their charming facades, the streets laid with brick and the glorious views of the harbor. My first impression: Monterey meets South of France. It was an easy and scenic walk to our hotel, Bellanca. But in this tiny town, everything is just steps away.
Beautiful Bellanca
Avalon does not lack for deluxe accommodations. Even so, Bellanca stands out. The modern and elegant hotel sits directly across the street from Step Beach, aptly named for two short flights of steps, one leading from the street to the sand and another from sand to ocean. This is one of the prettiest beaches in the city…and a little less crowded, thanks to its (modest) distance from the pier. It’s halfway between the ferry terminal and the lovely Casino, once the hub of island nightlife and now a theater, multi-use event center and local landmark.
Bellanca’s accompanying bar and restaurant is The Naughty Fox, which has a colorful patio with phenomenal views. Or go up a few flights to enjoy the upper-level deck, with tables, lounge seating and even better views. The perfect spot to enjoy a morning cup of coffee, or do a little stargazing before tucking in.
Rooms here are very comfortable: Memory foam beds, quality linens, walk-in showers and a tranquil, ocean-inspired color scheme. We appreciated the oceanfront patio facing the main boulevard as well as a sliding glass door with discrete curtains that allowed for privacy without obscuring the sights. The shower had pump dispensers with deliciously herbal shampoo, conditioner and body wash — a nice touch.
Pedestrian Paradise
After getting checked in, it was high time for lunch. Bluewater Avalon, with its classic interior and waterside dining, beckoned. Its specialty is seafood, with seasonal specials — for fall 2024, paella and blackened local swordfish were both on the menu. My friend gave the swordfish a try, spiced with smoked paprika and tomato oil; I couldn’t resist the fish tacos, with blackened cod. We were both impressed by the freshness, delicious seasoning and generous portions. As I sat at a shady outdoor table, sipping a perfectly prepared margarita and gazing out at Avalon Bay, I was deeply contented.
Fueled by good food, we embarked on a walking tour. Avalon is, indeed, small enough to explore on foot, which allows one to pop in and out of shops, grab an ice cream cone (the town is lousy with scoop shops) or drop by Vons (on the corner of Sumner and Beacon) for any provisions needed for a short stay. T-shirts, hats, magnets and totes make great mementoes, but I was charmed by the Catalina tile, much of it made by locally owned Silver Canyon Pottery.
Those who want to travel further or faster can opt for beach cruisers — easy enough to rent, although Bellanca has its own mint-condition fleet that are free for guests’ use. But on Catalina, is is the golf cart that reigns supreme; they are everywhere and clearly the main mode of transportation.
Head for the Hills
After another amazing meal at the Lobster Trap — casual, vibrant and fun, with great drinks and phenomenal seafood — we enjoyed a leisurely walk back to Bellanca, admiring the pretty lights twinkling on the water. Avalon leans more toward the romantic than the raucous after dark, although there is the occasional bar with music and merriment.
That was fine for us — we were early to bed and early to rise for a sunrise hike with Catalina Backcountry.
It was still dark when Aaron and Cheryl came to pick us up. They drove us up Stagecoach Road while we munched on donuts courtesy of Cheryl, who also owns Island Donuts (the blueberry was divine). Once we hit the summit, we began the Divide Hike, which follows the ridge line that separates the island. We traveled along the Trans Catalina Trail for five miles, starting in the dawn twilight. As the light gained, we found ourselves in a stark but beautiful chaparral landscape, surrounded by an ocean of clouds — we were up above the marine layer.
The Trans Catalina Trail is not for the faint of heart. Rugged and exposed, the full trail is around 40 miles and traverses the entire island, from its southeastern-most point in Avalon to the northwest tip of the island at either Parsons Landing or Starlight Beach. But fear not: The Divide Hike is much more moderate, flat or downhill for most of its five miles.
And if you like the views from Avalon, the views from the TCT will take your breath away. As the morning progressed, the fog burned off, revealing dramatic valleys, an endless blue sky and Avalon and the harbor below — a view that, in the words of Andrea, “never got old.”
The final portion of the hike takes travelers back down into Avalon via the Wrigley Memorial and Botanic Garden. Around 38 acres, it’s filled with cacti and plants endemic to the island. But the highlight is the Wrigley Memorial, an 80-foot structure honoring William Wrigley Jr., the chewing gum magnate who owned Catalina Island starting in 1919 and contributed to much of its development. (His heirs would eventually donate most of the island to the Catalina Island Conservancy in the 1970s).
From the botanic garden, it’s an easy walk downhill to the Catalina Island Golf Course. But our destination — on Cheryl’s recommendation — was The Sandtrap for breakfast. It’s not fancy, by any means, but it has a large, shady patio, an expansive menu with lots of American and Mexican fare, surprisingly good coffee and a full bar.
We worked off our meal on the walk back to Bellanca for hot showers and a little quiet time before our afternoon adventure on the ziplines.
Hiking and watersports have long been among Catalina’s attractions. Much newer is the zipline, which opened in 2010. Operated by Catalina Island Zipline Eco Tour, it includes five exhilarating zips at 600 feet above sea level. Participants soar over beautiful Descanso Canyon, with an unobstructed glimpse of the city and Avalon Bay below. Guides are knowledgeable, considerate and put safety first — and are personable and funny to boot. A fantastic way to spend a few hours!
Our packed schedule meant there was just enough time to get cleaned up before dinner at The Naughty Fox, Bellanca’s onsite restaurant. It may have been our favorite meal of the trip.
Was it the spacious patio with great views of the promenade and ocean? Was it the attentive service or the inventive cocktails? Maybe it was just the chance to sit in perfect peace after a sweaty and active day that spoke to our souls. Whatever it was, The Naughty Fox did, indeed, cast a spell.
Our drinks (an old fashioned for me; a special concoction the bartender whipped up for my friend) were fantastic, and the food was exactly what we were looking for: Lots of small plates and shareables, with an emphasis on vegetables and fresh ingredients. Loved my Catalina salad (greens with cranberries, cherries, figs, pecans and goat cheese)…but I still dream about those ahi poke nachos. The dessert menu was definitely tempting, with root beer floats and house-made custard, but there simply wasn’t room.
After a cup of tea on Bellanca’s deck to fully wind down, everyone fell into a deep slumber.
Four-Wheel Adventure
For our final day in Avalon, we toured around on a golf cart. Not something I’d have normally considered, but on Catalina Island, it is The Thing To Do.
Spots we visited on foot the day before we were able to enjoy once again from a more comfortable vantage point. We also had a chance to tour other parts of the island, such as Lover’s Cove (west of the boat terminal), Country Club Drive and Camino Del Monte Road. Great views everywhere we went. This is also how we saw the Chimes Tower, with bells that ring every hour, on the hour, and the Zane Grey Pueblo Hotel — once the vacation home of the famous novelist.
We enjoyed a hearty brunch at Buffalo Nickel, near the heliport about a mile west of Avalon. A local favorite due to its tasty Mexican standards, generous portions and reasonable prices, tourists often eschew the 25-minute walk (beautiful…but hot) for the courtesy pickup and dropoff — just give them a call.
That meal definitely set us up for the rest of the day, which we enjoyed shopping, wading in the water and simply breathing in the Catalina Island vibe. We reluctantly boarded our afternoon ferry back to Long Beach…but took that deep-down serenity home. Island time can be anytime with the right frame of mind.
GETTING THERE
FERRY
Catalina Express is the easiest and cheapest way to get to Catalina Island, with several departures daily from Long Beach, San Pedro and Dana Point. Tickets start at $42.
Phone: 800.613.1212
Email: mail@CatalinaExpress.com
Website: catalinaexpress.com
HELICOPTER
Maverick Helicopter offers transportation from Los Angeles and Orange counties to Catalina Island, as well as sightseeing and other tours.
Address: 56 Pebbly Beach Road, Avalon
Phone: 844.731.5622
Website: www.maverickhelicopter.com
AIR
There is NO commercial air service to Catalina Island. But private aircraft can fly into the Airport in the Sky, 10 miles from Avalon. It is owned and operated by the Catalina Island Conservancy, which offers the Wildlands Express shuttle service to Avalon.
Address: 1 Airport Road, Avalon
Phone: 310.510.0143
Website: catalinaconservancy.org/recreation/airport-in-the-sky/
LODGING
Bellanca HOTEL
Rooms with queen- and king-size beds; cabanas; studios; and suites. Rates start at $169 ($214 weekends).
111 Crescent Avenue, Avalon
310.510.0555
reserve@bellancahotel.com
www.bellancahotel.com
DINING
Bluewater Avalon
Fresh seafood, pasta, salads, sandwiches and burgers with dining inside or out and a fabulous waterside location. Full bar, good wine list, craft beer. $11-$38.
306 Crescent Avenue, Avalon
310.510.3002
www.bluewatergrill.com/location/catalina-island/
Buffalo Nickel
A great family restaurant and a local favorite, with booths, tables and a spacious patio (and affordable to boot). Popular for breakfast and happy hour…but a solid choice anytime. Near the heliport, it’s a 25-minute walk from the center of town…or a short bike or golf cart ride. Don’t want to hoof it? Call the restaurant for pickup and dropoff, free of charge.
57 Pebbly Beach Road
310.510.1323
www.buffalonickelrestaurants.com
Island Donuts
Locally owned, freshly baked and delicious. 5:30 a.m.-3 p.m. or after selling out (definitely likely, especially when the cruise ships come in). Look for the pink donut sign. Closed on Thursdays. >$10.
104 Clarissa Avenue, Avalon
@islanddonutsofficial
The Lobster Trap
Casual, fun and a little kitschy — in a good way. The seafood, however, is no joke and the drinks are legendary. Not waterside, but the high spirits more than make up for it. $20-$30.
128 Catalina Avenue
310.510.8585
buffalonickelrestaurants.com
The Naughty Fox
At the Bellanca Hotel — but definitely not just a hotel restaurant. Groovy, modern and sophisticated fusion in an atmosphere that can’t be beat. Great patio, better views — a must-visit, even if all you get is a drink. $5-$36.
111 Crescent Avenue
310.510.0555
www.bellancahotel.com/the-naughty-fox/
The Sandtrap
Open for breakfast, lunch and happy hour. A bit of a walk (relatively speaking) from the beach, but a great way to get away from the crowds. Even on a hot day, the shade and cold drinks will keep you cool. One of the best values in town. $10-$20.
501 Avalon Canyon Road
310.510.2505
www.facebook.com/catalinasandtrap/
RECREATION
Catalina Backcountry
Guided hikes, including multi-day camping trips. They’ll haul your gear, too — or set you up so you can skip packing altogether.
118 Metropole Avenue
310.913.9036
www.catalinabackcountry.com
Catalina Island Golf Cart
Four- and six-passenger golf carts to rent. $130 for two hours, with a $60 cash deposit required.
625 Crescent Avenue
310.510.0369
www.catalinaislandgolfcart.com
Catalina Zipline Eco Tour
Two hours of exciting…and completely safe…zigzagging above Descanso Canyon. A short walk up the road from Descanso Beach Club. Ages 10+. Tickets start at $165.
1 Saint Catherine Way
877-778-8322
www.catalinatours.com/tour/zip-line-eco-tour/
