By Nancy D. Lackey Shaffer | Photos by Viktor Budnik
True to its name, Warbringer bourbon packs a punch. The rich, smoky and complex whiskey handcrafted by Oxnard’s Sespe Creek Distillery is a powerhouse of flavor, with hints of honey and spice against a solid backbone of mesquite. More campfire than caramel, with a smoldering finish that lingers long after the fire is gone. “Barbecue” is the word that usually comes to mind — and that’s by design.
“Mesquite smoke dominates the flavor,” said Eric Krauthoff, distiller and distillery manager.
“We’re in a category of our own.”
Smoke and Roast
Some of that has to do with the ingredients — just corn and rye.
“We only use two cereals, which is rare,” COO and master distiller John Campbell said.
It’s what Sespe Creek Distillery does with those products that gives Warbringer its distinctive edge. Double-cracked flaking grits are smoked onsite with mesquite chips that burn low and slow, infusing the corn over days. Kernels are also roasted, to bring out corn’s natural sweetness.
After that, it’s just malted rye and water, cooked into a mash, and some yeast. Fermentation takes place in enormous open vats made from cypress. Percolating away for days, the scent of yeast and wood dissipates into the air, filling the entire warehouse with a luscious bouquet — “almost like perfume,” in Campbell’s words.
Big, spire-shaped copper pots are used for double distillation — another aspect that Campbell said makes Sespe Creek spirits unique. Compared to more modern column stills, pot stills are less efficient and take longer. But the extra effort is worth it: More flavor is retained, making for a more complex product. As Jason Martin, who assists Krauthoff in all aspects of the process, said, “You get out what you put in.”
Even greater richness is gained through a short aging in Ximenez sherry barrels, and a longer one in New American Oak.
Power Hitters
Sespe Creek Distillery was founded in 2016 by Dr. David Brandt, a chemist with an extensive background in biotechnology. It’s his original bourbon recipe that is still in use today. The distillery also makes a high-end rum, Parlor Cay, and Silvergrin vodka, made from potato, corn and winter wheat and developed with Josh Goldman, a legendary bartender often credited as the “father” of craft cocktail culture in Los Angeles.
But the company is putting most of its focus on Warbringer at the moment, capitalizing on bourbon’s popularity and some high-profile celebrity endorsements, such as that of former UFC heavyweight champ John “The Warmaster” Barnett. Barnett is a shareholder and a bourbon enthusiast who hand selects Sespe Creek whiskey for the product sold under the Warmaster label. Big Cockerel is another limited-release product, crafted with UFC fighter Donald “Cowboy” Cerrone.
Campbell was recruited last year to help with Warbringer’s development and distribution. A native of Scotland, he worked for decades at Laphroaig on the island of Islay, famous for its “peaty” and complex scotch whiskeys. Warbringer’s smoky character is reminiscent of the single-malt scotches he was familiar with, which intrigued Campbell.
“It’s been a challenge professionally and culturally,” he said. “But with a smoky bourbon, there are a lot of similarities.”
Krauthoff came on board during the pandemic after a decade in the wine business, including stints at Bridlewood in Santa Ynez and Foley Estates in Lompoc. He hired Martin, a longtime friend with a background in the hospitality industry, in 2021.
Together the three are bringing their combined wisdom, problem-solving skills and love of craft spirits to Warbringer.
Southwest Spirit
Sespe Creek Distillery is very much a small craft operation. But it’s hoping to soon make inroads into the national bourbon marketplace. With Campbell guiding the way, Warbringer is taking aim at Tennessee, Texas and California.
“We want to build slow and steady,” Campbell said.
How does a West Coast distiller appeal to the Southern U.S.? According to Campbell, by offering something that piques the interest of connoisseurs. Warbringer’s smokiness brings to mind campfires and wide-open spaces, so country western branding is a natural fit. A Southern spirit, but one that reflects a uniquely Southwestern character.
Locally, the curious can check out this original bourbon at a number of retail outlets, including Red Barn Liquor in Ventura, Jere’s Liquors in Camarillo, Westridge Market in Ojai and Holden’s Liquor and Gift Shop in Oxnard. Or, try it in a cocktail at Oxnard’s Q Club or Saticoy Club, the golf course in Somis.
To truly experience what makes Warbringer — and Sespe Creek Distillery’s other offerings — so special, visit the tasting room. Still in development, Campbell expects it to be open by Labor Day. Sampling craft spirits right where they are made, with the smell of fermenting mash and smoked corn perfuming the air, is a truly memorable affair — and well worth the wait.
Sespe Creek Distillery
2451 Eastman Avenue, Oxnard
sespecreekspirits.com
Warbringer Mesquite Smoked Southwest Bourbon
www.warbringerbourbon.com
